The Current State Of The Fashion Union

As January of 2020 comes to a close, I felt the time was right to share my Jill’s eye view on the current state of the fashion union. I’m not focusing on trends because those change every minute and I cannot write that fast. No, I’m focusing on the state of accessibility and visibility in the fashion industry for people like me. 

At present, there is very little dwarfism representation in the fashion industry. For example, Aerie just introduced eight new #AerieReal  Role Models in its spring ‘20 campaign. They are: actor Lana Condor, actor and writer Beanie Feldstein, actor and writer Hari Nef, Tony award winning actor Ali Stroker, sustainability activist Manuela Barón, founder of Smile On Me Dre Thomas, DJ and wellness advocate Tiff McFierce, and scientist and CEO Keiana Cavé. These eight women join current Role Models Aly Raisman, Iskra, Brenna Huckaby, Molly Burke and Jenna Kutcher. All of these women are fabulous and I have fully supported the AerieReal campaign since it was launched in 2014. As someone who does not and will never have the body of a Victoria’s Secret Angel, it was heartening to see real women as the face of a national body positive campaign. These women are diverse, beautiful on the inside and out, and deserving of their Role Model status. But, as a dwarf, I do not feel represented. AerieReal is not an exception. There are no major body positive campaigns that feature a person with dwarfism. 

This is not a new problem. For quite some time, certainly for as long as I have been alive and aware, the fashion industry has been discriminatory towards people with dwarfism. Designers will argue that it’s too challenging, there are too many factors to consider. Having watched Project Runway for 18 seasons and seeing what designers can create when given one day/unconventional materials (from candy to car parts and everything in between)/real women (anyone who is not a model)/limited budget/etc. 

America’s Next Top Model was another reality show I would binge on a regular basis. I remember being really excited when they announced that cycle 13 was going to be their petite cycle (petite as in short). The tagline for that season was "'The Lineup Is 5' 7" And Under. Not The Usual Suspects. BOOK 'EM!". Yes, all the contestants were under 5’7”, but the shortest was 5’3”. Now, this cycle aired in 2009. I was 14 and didn’t think anything of it. 11 years later and I can’t help but wonder, “Did anyone with dwarfism audition?” “Would a dwarf even be considered?” Also, it is important to note that this was the ONLY petite cycle...and there were 24 cycles in total. 

However, as I see it, the current state of the fashion union is not as dark as it may seem from 4’00”. There are designers and organizations that have started to make a difference. For example, Tommy Hilfiger has their Tommy Adaptive line- fashionable and functional clothing designed for people with prosthetics or in a wheelchair. The Runway of Dreams Foundation is a non-profit organization that “works toward a future of inclusion, acceptance and opportunity in the fashion industry for people with disabilities”.  

And then there is Sinéad Burke. She is an activist and influencer and the reason why I started this blog. Since starting her blog at the age of 16 she has co-founded the Inclusive Fashion and Design Collective (IFDC), was the first person to attend the Met Gala in 2019 and was selected by Meghan, Duchess of Sussex as one of fifteen Forces For Change featured on the September 2019 issue of British Vogue. 

So, with all that being said, the current state of the fashion industry is that change needs to happen. Sinéad Burke is making her voice heard (and it is powerful), but it cannot be the only one. It is a new year, a new decade and it is time that little people are seen in an industry that affects everyone.